Turtles. That is the one and only reason I went to Tortuguero and I was not disappointed.
Tortuguero is not the easiest place to reach, considering no roads go there. Your only options are to arrive by airplane or boat. Despite that, Tortuguero National Park is the third most visited national park in Costa Rica. The place I was staying at – Laguna Lodge – took care of all of my transportation, which included a long bus ride, followed by a boat ride. This is common among the hotels in Tortuguero. The rates also include all of your meals while you’re there, and usually a couple tours as well. The one tour that was extra, and well worth it, was the evening beach walk to find nesting sea turtles.
Tortuguero is considered one of the most important sea turtle nesting grounds in the Western Hemisphere and to protect the turtles, no one is allowed on the beach alone after 6pm – you must be with a guide. This is because the majority of the nesting activities take place at night. The peak of the turtle season is from late July into August. Various types of sea turtles – including Hawkbill, Green, Leatherback and Loggerhead – all nest in Tortuguero, and if you’re lucky, you’ll arrive during the overlap of two nesting seasons. This would give you the chance to see baby sea turtles hatching, while spotting female sea turtles are coming on land to lay eggs.
As we walked onto the beach, all I could hear was the thunder erupting in the distance. An occasional flash of lightning would light our path, but then it would be dark once more. To protect the turtles, only guides were allowed to have flashlights. The beach had transformed since the morning, when it was deserted. Now we quietly walked by other tour groups, with only the guides talking to each other, discussing where turtles had been seen lately. The rest of us waited, silent and anxious. They make no promises that you will see a turtle, and each group is only allowed on the beach for a limited amount of time, so there is definitely some luck involved. Thankfully, we were lucky.
Once the word was given that a female turtle had been spotted laying eggs, we were quickly on the move. Several groups will view the same turtle, each spending just a few minutes with her – this way, everyone will get a chance to see her, while disturbing her as little as possible. The people of Tortuguero realize that the sea turtles are their lifeline and are the reason so many tourists visit their town. Many steps are taken to ensure that the turtles are protected and will continue to return.
When we approached our sea turtle, I was breathless. She was beautiful – and enormous! I had not been expecting such a large creature, but just her shell was 4 feet across. As we gathered in, our guide explained that sea turtles enter a sort of mental zone once they start laying eggs, and as long as we were quite and moved slowly, she wouldn’t notice us. It is an experience to be that close to nature. I wanted to reach out and touch her, but that would of likely resulted in a hand slapping. Looking toward the water, I could see the trail in the sand as she created using her fins to scoot herself on shore. Sea turtles can lay up to 200 eggs at a time, and can be on the beach for more than two hours.
As other groups began to surround us in the distance, I knew our time on the beach was about to end. To ensure fairness, once a group spots a sea turtle, they are taken back to their hotel. We quietly said our goodbyes, and began the treck back to our rooms, as another group approached our turtle. As the evening ended, I realized that I really hoped that what the guide said about her not noticing us is true, as I couldn’t imagine that giving birth in front of an audience would be a comfortable or enjoyable thing to do.
11 comments
Nancie (Ladyexpat) says:
August 24, 2010 at 1:18 am (UTC -7)
This sounds magical. I wanted to see the turtles nesting when I was in Malaysia, but there at least a 3 month wait. Still on my “want to do list”, and after reading your post even more so.
Ashley @ No Onions Extra Pickles says:
August 25, 2010 at 2:48 am (UTC -7)
Glad there wasn’t a wait when we were in Costa Rica
At the hotel we were staying at guests couldn’t sign up for the tour until they were there – which was nice, cause then everyone had a chance.
Dina says:
August 24, 2010 at 1:16 pm (UTC -7)
Wow, incredible experience! I really love observing animal in their natural place. Haven’t seen a giant turtle yet, so I’m jealous! Especially you saw her laying eggs!! I didn’t think of comparing that with human having baby, but yes, that must be very uncomfortable!!
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Ashley @ No Onions Extra Pickles says:
August 25, 2010 at 3:13 am (UTC -7)
I’m jealous of all of your penguin and wallaby encounters
I love watching wildlife too! One of my favorite things to do when traveling.
Norbert says:
August 24, 2010 at 3:18 pm (UTC -7)
I wish I could have gone there when I was in Costa Rica. I would love to see that beautiful “turtle” scene. Jesus… 200 eggs!! lol
Norbert recently posted..Letters to Take on Your Travels
Ashley @ No Onions Extra Pickles says:
August 25, 2010 at 3:01 am (UTC -7)
I know! 200 eggs is crazy – you should definitely try to visit next time you find yourself in Costa Rica. Even if it isn’t turtle season, it’s a beautiful place and so much fun to take boat tours through the canals.
Norbert says:
August 26, 2010 at 3:18 pm (UTC -7)
I will. Costa Rica is such a great country to visit, so a return is a must!
Norbert recently posted..How to Nail Down Your Pre-Travel Planning
Mark says:
August 27, 2010 at 7:58 am (UTC -7)
What a great experience this must have been Ashley! Costa Rica has been on my bucket list for a while…sure hope to make it there someday. It would be an added plus if I got to see these remarkable creatures as well. Great post!
Ashley @ No Onions Extra Pickles says:
August 28, 2010 at 6:43 am (UTC -7)
Do have a soft spot for Costa Rica – really enjoyed myself there. And had so many amazing wildlife encounters (like the sloth I spotted!). Even fell for the capital, San Jose…which I had heard other travelers complain about, but I wish we had more than a couple days there.
Juno says:
August 29, 2010 at 10:29 am (UTC -7)
I can’t imagine see enormous see turtle! All turtle I’ve seen was a hand big, quirlte small ones. It’s like reading national geographic moment
Nice! Oh and I just read about this park. What a coincidence 
Ashley @ No Onions Extra Pickles says:
August 30, 2010 at 6:06 am (UTC -7)
Really? Where you thinking about visiting? I think you should! It was INCREDIBLE to be that close to a wild animal that big.