Travel Memories Monday – Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Medjugorje is located in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina. After hearing family members rave about it the previous summer, I decided to take the short trip from nearby Mostar to see what it is all about. Despite being rather nonreligious myself, I find myself drawn to pilgrimage sites. Thousands of pilgrims travel to Medjugorje each year, and it is believed that over 30 million have visited since the sightings of the Virgin Mary were first reported. The Catholic Church has yet to recognize the Miracle of Medjugorje, making it the most visited illicit Catholic shrine in the world.

While you can hike up Apparition Hill to see a statue of the Virgin Mary placed in the location where she appeared to the children, my real interest was a newer addition to Medjugorje. The Risen Christ statue, designed by the Slovenian artist Andrej Ajdic, was put up in 1998, and in 2000, a small crack appeared at the knee and began to drip a clear fluid. It is said that there is no scientific explanation for where this liquid is coming from, and while it is clear, it has the same genetic make up as blood.  Everyday, pilgrims arrive to dab up this clear liquid and bring it back home.  Only a single drop flows out of the crack at a time, so you can imagine the line to see the Risen Christ can back up quickly on a busy day.

Because I arrived unprepared, I popped into one of the many gift shops lining the one and only street in Medjugorje to stock up on my religious gear – several handkerchiefs for family and friends, and a holy water vessel for myself – all of which would receive a dab of holy liquid from the statue.

Everyone patiently lined up, waiting for their turn with the Risen Christ. Some prayed.  Others whispered to each other quietly.  What was clear is that no one was here for just themselves.  As each person approached the statue, they pulled out multiple items to rub against its knee.  While some were obviously store bought, like mine, there were plenty of handmade objects as well, all to bring home for family and friends who were unable to make the journey here.  It is believed that this liquid can cure anything from illness to misfortunes.  I was also told that during the Yugoslav Wars of the early 90′s, pilgrims continued to visit Medjugorje.  Many of them traveled by bus, and despite having violence raging on around them, not a single pilgrim was hurt during their pilgrimage.

I hate to try to put logic into places like this.  Did these children really see the Blessed Virgin Mary? Is the mystery clear liquid really the blood of Christ?  I don’t know and could prove it either way. Millions of people would say yes, but I’m sure the same amount would disagree.  The whole experience is about faith and believing in the unexplained, so let’s just leave it a that.

LOGISTICS

Medjugorje is easiest to reach from Mostar.  There is an morning bus heading to Croatia that will take you to Medjugorje. Getting back to Mostar is slightly more difficult, as the bus service in that direction is sporadic. Buses leave in front of the post office in Medjugorje (though no one knows what time) and drop you off in a smaller bus station in the newer part of Mostar.  I felt rather lost getting off the bus, but just follow the signs for the Stari Most bridge to find your bearings.  If the bus isn’t your style, you can always hire a taxi – more expensive, but also more convenient.